Ranco ETC 111000-000 - 120V Wiring Guide
From Habanero Smoker
First I would like to thank Michael Mulvaney; for without his online tutorial I could have never wired my Ranco. It was so helpful that I decided to add a tutorial on this site.
The Ranco ETC 111000-000, can be used as a temperature control device for the Bradley Smoker, but is not the ideal controller for that purpose; though some are using it as such. Which is fine, and a very economical way to go. The reason I say it is not ideal, because the high temperature range limit is 220°F, and it is not weather proof. Why did I decide to purchase one? I have been interested in dry curing my own sausage, and I am using mine to control the temperature of my dry curing cabinet.
You can get this controller unwired or prewired. The cost between the unwired and prewired is about $15, which can be a lot if you are on a tight budget. If you have an extra 16 foot or 20 foot 16 gauge extension cord lying around, a romex connector and wire nut left over from other projects like I did, then that is a total savings of $15. Other reasons for wiring the controller yourself are; you can decide the length of each cord, or you may want to hardwire the controller directly to the device and/or to the outlet.
- Ranco ETC 111000-000; single stage
- 16 gauge three prong extension cord (20 foot cord will be more then enough length)
- 3/8" Romex connector (wire clamp assembly (optional))
- wire nut or electrical tape
- Phillips screwdriver
- Flat head screwdriver (small head)
- Wire cutters
- Wire stripper
- Utility knife
Directions: Click on photos to enlarge.
- These are all the materials you will need. The romex connector is not necessary, but makes wiring easier. Without the connector you will have to knot the cords inside the controller so the cords can not be accidentally pulled out. If you don’t have a wire nut, electrical tape can be used instead.
- First us a philips screwdriver, loosen the four screws on the front of the controller, and take the cover off. Use caution in pulling the cover off, there are wires that connect the front and back halves. The terminals are located at the bottom of the rear half of the unit. You will need to lift up the cardboard protector to expose them.
Photo shown with cardboard protector lifted and folded back to expose the terminals.
- Next install the romex connector in the hole at the bottom of the controller. Before installing the connector, if it has a spacer you will need to remove it. This can be easily done by using a strong pair of needle noise pliers. Grasp the spacer at or near one of the tabs that secure it to the connector, and bend back and forth until it breaks, you will have to do this for each tab. Once the spacer is removed insert the connector into the controller and secure with the nut that came with the connector. Use a pair of pliers to securely tighten the nut.
- If you do not use the connector, you must knot the end of the cord inside the controller prior to connecting the wires. It is well worth the expense to pay a few cents for the connector.
- This photo is a close up of the wire terminals. The numbers do not correspond with any markings on the circuit board. They have been added to the photos for reference while using this tutorial.
- With the wire cutters, cut your electrical cord to your specifications. Ranco cuts their prewired cords to 8 feet for the female end (output, receptacle), and 10 feet for the male end (plug). I just cut mine in half; keeping in mind that I will loose about 3 inches in length from one end for wiring, and about 7 inches from the other end for wiring and to create a jumper wire.
After cutting the extension cord, cut a 4 inch piece from one end of a cord. From the 4 inch piece, use an utility knife to remove the outer insulation. Select one of the three wires (best to use the black cord), and use the wire strippers (or utility knife) to remove 1/4 inch of insulation from both ends. This will be used as your jumper wire.
To wire the two cords to the controller, you must have enough wire so that they are not taut once they are connected. There must be some slack for contraction and vibration. Use the utility knife and remove about 3 inches of outer insulation off the ends of each cord, so that all three wires are showing. This will allow enough wire to provide some slack. Next strip 1/4 inch of insulation off each wire.
- Take the 4 inch jumper wire and connect one end into terminal #2 and the other end into terminal #2A. Use the small flat head screw driver to tighten both ends for now; latter you will need to loosen #2A. The female end (receptacle or output cord) gets wired first. From the female cord insert the black wire into terminal #1 and tighten. The white wire goes to terminal #3, and tighten that for now. Bend the ground wire out of the way.
- Next you need to connect the male end (plug). Loosen the screw on terminal #2A, using black wire from the male cord insert it into terminal #2A. Make sure both wires are fully seated, then tighten the connection. Now loosen terminal #3 and insert the white wire. Again making sure both wires are fully seated before tightening. Connect both ends of the ground wires together and use a wire nut to secure them (or twist the two ends together and use electrical tape to secure the wires). Tuck the ground wires out of the way so that the cover can be put back on. Now tighten the clamp on the romex connector, and check all wire connections to make sure they are secure.
- Replace cover and tighten the four screws. That’s it, your project is finish.
Picture above shows the controller plugged in, and ready to go through the setup procedure.